The week preceding the finals was rather a panic. Our brief was to create a couture inspired gown for the final garment of The Great British Sewing Bee 2014. custodia cover iphone I was rather excited about this as it was exactly what I love to do in my dressmaking. My sewing over the years has led me on to create more and more complex constructions and my all time favourite thing is to do this type of dress. I was looking forwards to really showcase my skills once and for all, no holds barred, hopefully with time to complete a couture hand finish on the dress that would knock the judges socks off! My tactic for getting to the finals was to focus on doing something really well but not overfacing myself by not being able to complete the task and therefore going on to crash and burn. I knew that if I got to the final then I could really go all out both creatively and technically. As soon as I received the brief for the couture inspired dress, I knew exactly what I wanted; a little touch of Vivienne Westwood and a swirl of Valentino. The design of that dress took me all of 15 minutes, but the reality of how to make it in 6.5 hours took me considerably longer! But I digress….. Lets start at the very beginning, waiting outside the studio doors that morning, for the last pattern challenge of GBSB 2014. It was a wonderful feeling – excitement and nervous exhilaration. The finals at last, and here I was. No expectations were on me as I had never won garment of the week, so I went into the studio determined to thoroughly enjoy myself Our first challenge on that day was to make a mans tie. Sneaky. And just the job for this very last pattern challenge. custodia cover samsung A handmade tie has everything you could wish for when the theme of the week is couture. A quick dash into the haberdashery to get our fabrics. I wanted a really firm silk brocade, which I found, although I had considered a plain twill, but being the finals, I went with a delicious magenta and orange broken stripe. Tie making is a bit fiddly, especially the tipping process, and having never made a tie before, I was surprised at how many pieces there were, but it was such an enjoyable challenge. I was rather pleased with the results although one of the final instructions had me a little perplexed! I didn’t realise that Chinelo was having such a difficult time. When I saw her at the end of the challenge, my heart went out to her. She was so upset as she hadn’t managed to complete the tie. She doesn’t normally work from a pattern, so the combination of getting her head around unfamiliar instructions, coupled with immense pressure to perform, and the time limit, it was all too much….. Tamara, on the other hand, had waltzed into the studio with a tie around her waist! Patricks face was a picture! Tamara made a lovely job of the tie and beat me to first place with a rather lovely specimen. So, one down, two to go! And so onto the alterations challenge. Over the weeks I had started to adapt my way of attacking the alterations, learning a lot from my fellow competitors… When we saw that there was a wedding dress to be transformed I was rather thrilled. For a change!!!! The dash for the dresses was on, and I was hoping beyond anything that there was a silk one available to us. Silk is my preferred fabric to work with as it is so alive and expressive, beautiful to the touch and lends itself to all manner of shaping and sculpting. Needless to say, it really captures my imagination! We were directed to make a childs outfit from the gown, so I started by making the skirt part of what was going to be a dress, then moving on to the top, which I began cutting on the stand. After a little while, I realised that what I wanted to do was not going to be possible in the time, so I had to change plans with only 25 minutes to go. custodia samsung Panic! I opted for a very simple top with a bias neckline, and allowing the fabric to really speak for itself. I cut it with slightly extended shoulders so that I could softly tuck them in and give the silk a plumpness and fullness without competing with the intricate gathering around the waist of the skirt. When making something like this, for a little person, its important to remember that everything should be scaled down and delicate. That means seam allowances, hemlines and topstitching all need to be in proportion to the finished article. With so little time left to complete the challenge, I surprised myself with how quickly I managed to sew. Move over Lynda! (in my dreams – Lynda sews at the speed of light!) Tamara and Chinelo went roughly down the same path, doing all singing and dancing outfits. Chinelos dress had some cute little sleeves and lovely organza whilst Tamara made a feature of using tulle. Both were beautiful little frocks. I had a small panic attack when we lined up the mannequins, as suddenly my efforts looked very minimalist in comparison to the other two. Needless to say, I was mightily relieved to come in second with both judges appreciating the simplicity and attention to detail on mine. Phew! Chinelo won this challenge, as she incorporated some nice sewing processes. And so the first day of the finals came to a close, we were all wanting to get onto the next days sewing as quickly as possible. Another sleepless night and a long day ahead of us….. Back to the sewing room for the last time. And look who the models were! Our best friends had been drafted in; how lovely to have them with us – a real confidence boost! Thanks Katie! Armed with our fabrics (metres of the stuff!) we got down to the final dress of the series. The couture inspired gown. Patrick made me laugh as he was asking what I was going to do with all the fabric and whether the budget had been approved! Do you know, silk doesn’t have to be expensive. My glazed silk chiffon was £6.50 a metre, the silk taffeta £8.50 a metre, and all because I scouted around and bought roll ends of discontinued colours. My dress cost just over £100. Not bad for a one off couture ballgown! The fan pleated section was hand sewn onto coutile, a corset canvas, as I wanted something substantial to be the foundation of the dress. The bodice was cut then fitted to my model. I then boned it with rigiline, then started the arduous task of hand sewing the pleats into place. This took 3.5 hours to complete. After that, came the construction of the skirts, 10 metres in all; two 5 metre circular skirts attached to a wide petersham waistband which had been previously attached to the bodice. custodia iphone The hemline of the skirts was done with an overlocker and rolled to create a beautiful lettuce hemline, slightly wavy, giving a beautiful fluted effect to the skirts. Once the skirts were attached, a re-fit to Kate was in order. My chain placement was calculated and the giant hooks positioned. The waistband was fastened with hooks and eyes which were hidden under the chiffon. My next task was to make up the bustle with silk taffeta, a wonderful full bodied, lustrous fabric. Its gorgeous to work with and the results are always so pleasing. The final touches of the bustle was to catch in little stitches throughout the overskirt to create volume and movement, giving it a regal air. The curb chain was attached to the hooks on the bodice, and the dress was almost ready for the judging. And the final, final touches were the top had and riding crop! What I had wanted to do with this last all out sewing challenge was to incorporate proper couture hand sewing tradition, my Leicestershire roots, and my own equestrian background. This was who I am, and what I love. With everything done, there was nothing to do but wait for the final countdown. That last judging round kind of passed me by. I had done all that I could, really pushed the boat out and there was nothing more to do. I felt that I had done my very best and whatever the result, I was happy. Standing in the line up, with Tamara and Chinelo was a very still moment. Our friends and family were there with us, a party awaiting, and massive pride in what we had all achieved. I think I was almost daydreaming when my name was announced. Not for one moment had I expected to win the Great British Sewing Bee 2014 title, and for a second or two, I was paralysed, then beyond shocked, then…… well, hopefully you watched it all on BBC! Lost for words! I would like to say the biggest thank you ever to my fellow competitors, without whom this would have been no fun at all. Such great team spirit, sharing of knowledge, friendship and kindnesses. custodia cover iphone It is testament to the fact that we all remain in close touch with each other, still sharing our sense of humour, and interest in each others lives. What an amazing experience this has all been and if any of you out there have thoughts about entering the Sewing Bee – DO IT ! And the very last thanks go to Patrick and May, whose expertise and professionalism have been awesome.
Continue ReadingWhere Has the Summer Gone?
It seems no time at all since I last posted on this blog, but in actual fact, it was rather a long time ago. SO much has happened, and as this is my busy time of year with the horses, the weeks have galloped by! The GoSew project has finally come to fruition, with much enthusiasm from our young sewists, all of whom seem to have a rather light touch with the sewing machines, but more of that later! Since having won The Great British Sewing Bee, it was my aim to be able in some way to pass on the skills that have helped me so much in my life, and that is how the first idea of GoSew started. I knew what I wanted to do, but wasn’t entirely sure how to put it together! After giving a lecture to the local quilters club and mentioning the idea, several people came forward with offers of help, from supervision to demonstration! All I had to do was find my young enthusiasts! And that became obvious very quickly! The tide has turned now with sewing and related handcrafts, and we find ourselves in a renaissance that is gathering impetus and stature, attracting people from all walks of life, including television producers! Vintage, retro, and recycling/upcycling are all part of our everyday vocabulary, reflecting the mood of todays youngsters, with a longing for individuality and sustainability, plus a healthy dose of romanticism combined with a modern twist. custodia cover samsung There is a need to know how to produce these looks without spending a vast fortune that most of us don’t have, and television is now reflecting that growing trend. Gone are the days when your mother and grandmother were experts in all things related to any form of sewing, knitting, crocheting, rugmaking, lacemaking etc, and now that chain of expertise has been broken, there is a cavernous hole in our basic understanding of how things are constructed, or even a knowledge of fabric type and suitability for the purpose in hand. Our youngsters are hostages to fashion! The saying that knowledge is power is absolute. Without knowledge, we are powerless. I want to help, in a small way, to re address this in the sewing world, because with the amazing desire that the children have to be able to emulate what they see on the television, without real help, that will turn into frustration, disillusion and a complete disinterest in what could have been a life changing skill. I see my role in this challenge as one of a catalyst; putting two ingredients together to produce something much greater than the two separate parts. Hence GoSew. I have been blessed with the most astounding help with setting up the GoSew series of summer tuition, and I have to say a massive thank you to the Sherrier School in Lutterworth and the Lutterworth College for the use of their premises and their belief that sewing is an important part of social education. Particular thanks go to Holly Coull and Robyn Wallace at the Sherrier for their unfettered enthusiasm and also to Andrew Cooper Head of Lutterworth College for his great support and belief in vocational skills. Without these people, this whole thing would not have happened. custodia cover samsung The great belief that sewing is really important to us all has been carried through by the outstanding support that Janome Sewing Machines has also given me, allowing me the possibility to do pop up workshops with my mobile sewing kit, and also Simplicity patterns and their generosity. We are on the precipice of a new age of creative sewing and crafts; the embryonic beginnings of a greater manufacturing base and an unprecedented opportunity for vocational skills to be recognised and rewarded as is deserving of the skills that are required to achieve good creative results. Lets build on what we have! My idea of GoSew is that the tuition should be free, as these days, sewing classes can be quite expensive, which is fine for those earning a wage, but for most parents, it becomes an unaffordable dream. custodia cover huawei I learnt to sew at school, with the most amazing standard of tuition which only became apparent to me much later in life. custodia huawei It changed my life in subtle ways. custodia iphone I want to do the same for others. I am in the process of trying to arrange donations of fabrics of differing types for the children to practice and learn with. For me, that was a tipping point in my sewing experience. custodia cover samsung Rather than just learning on simple cottons, we had the opportunity to use other, rather more difficult fabrics, and so I fell in love with silk.
Continue ReadingWhat? No Pattern?
It’s semi final time, and what a cracker! No patterns. custodia cover samsung Gulp. Once over the initial excitement of the ticket to the semis, the reality set in. The long challenge on the second day was the one we could prepare for ahead of time. This week, the brief was to take a favourite garment, and without destroying the item, make a pattern from it and then make it up. Then wear it! Choosing an appropriate item wasn’t easy, as most of my stuff is either far too detailed to be able to make in the time, or specialist clothing like my breeches, which I couldn’t source the fabric for. My main concern with my chosen dress was its simplicity. There was no room to hide with it, and as it was lined, everything needed to be pretty well perfect. But I’ll come back to that later. First things first. Standing outside the studio doors that morning was like looking up at the north face of the Eiger and being told to get to the top by nightfall! Seemingly impossible, but once we were in the sewing room stood before Patrick and May, we were on the climb of our lives! Our first challenge was handed out – 3 metres of fabric and a mannequin – go and make a dress. Now, let me tell you a story of my first attempt at draping… I was 23 years old, immortal and awesomely confident with ignorance! My friend and I concocted a dress for me to go to a local farmers ball with 7 metres of almost neon pink shantung silk. custodia iphone So far, that sounds okay, doesn’t it? Our idea was to truss me up like a shop window dummy, pleating, draping and tucking our way round what seemed like acres of fabric, as I stood there, moving a little this way and that, making sure there was some room for manoeuvre. The outcome was totally splendid, so off I went into the night. So many people admired my creation, asking where I had bought it, and wanting to know who the designer was. Wow! Until dinner was over…We hadn’t thought about the possibilities of sitting down in the thing, nor what a bit of energetic dancing with a couple of rather robust farmers would do to our masterpiece. As it slowly unravelled, untucked and unpinned itself, I found myself in the ladies room desperately trying to adjust the design to now protect my modesty rather than make a fashion statement! I quietly slipped into the night, looking rather like a pink Egyptian mummy, safely bandaged rather than draped. That was not an experiment I have ever repeated since! So, back to the sewing room. You will have seen that I chose a beautiful Liberty silk satin to make my dress with. It had a wonderful drape which suggested that I should cut it on the bias and maximise on its qualities. custodia cover iphone I had in mind a sort of 1920′s tea dress, with pleats at the back and a plain skirt front that had two concealed wide pleats at the side. I was rather pleased with the final result but of course would have preferred another 15 minutes to be able to hand finish it. custodia cover samsung As we lined up for the results, the usual nerves kicked in, and I stood there wondering if I had done enough. A respectable 2nd place! And yes, it was rather like a leg wax… That first hurdle over with, it was onto the alteration challenge, and not being my favourite part of the competition, I always felt nervous about the demands that were being asked of us! Okay, so this one didn’t look too bad – putting sleeves into a dress. At last, something I felt I could probably do quite well, as it was a straight measuring job. Putting sleeves into a garment that doesn’t already have them is a very useful skill to acquire, as there will be many times in your life when you feel that a dress you loved so much would, these days, look much better with a little sleeve. custodia cover samsung 2nd place again. Wow! The first day over with, and back to the hotel for supper with Tamara. Chinelo and Lynda both went to their rooms exhausted, but Tamara and I sat down together with a bowl of chips and a bottle of wine! And what a delicious supper! As usual, we discussed the day’s goings on, and promised ourselves that we would give it everything we had tomorrow. And so the day ended, both retiring to bed for another sleepless night, and another sewing challenge to come. The big one. Copy a garment. Make it. Wear it. I chose a simple shift dress, which was perhaps too simple, but to make the challenge a little more difficult, I chose an ivory silk poplin, which gave me nowhere to hide with it, so everything had to be perfect. custodia cover iphone Making the pattern came first, and I used fabric instead of paper to copy the dress, measuring where the darts were then sewing these into it. I then traced around the outline of the dress pieces and cut out. Next, I unpicked the darts, ironed the fabric pattern and I was ready to go. Essentially, the hardest bit was done, but the construction needed to be really accurate. The fabric handled nicely and I was pleased with the fit. As usual, time was the enemy, and so a bit of a rush to get into the dress, and that is where it went wrong. May criticised my dress because of the fit at the back. I couldn’t believe it! It had seemed perfect when I had last tried it on, so why did it appear to be so awful? I found out 30 minutes later when I made a trip to the ladies, and as I stood in front of the mirror trying to get a view of the back, something was pulling. custodia samsung I unzipped the dress only to find that the lining (which I hadn’t had time to slipstitch to the zipper tape), had got caught in the zip. Too late, and the judging was over. How lucky was I that I got through to the finals? It was such a shame that Lynda was knocked out, but that is the nature of competing. Lynda, we all adored you and how much fun did you bring to the sewing room? And all the naughty sign language you taught us! Saying goodbye to one of our fellow competitors has never been nice as we all got on so well together, and this was just the worst moment. I now have all the items of clothing returned to me, and the first thing I did was try on that dress to see whether I was just kidding myself. The back fits perfectly, but it could have done with the shoulder straps taken up by a quarter of an inch. That dress will haunt me, because I think a lot of people felt that I should have gone that week, and not Lynda. Thank God I’m not a judge. And now I face the lovely, quirky and inventive Tamara and freehand cutter Chinelo for the finals.
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